Guide to Jewelry Making

 

 

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Making a Platinum/Diamond Heart Necklace

Jurgen J. Maerz

 

For this project the platinum used is
Pt950/Ru wire 1 mm x 2.5 mm x 50 mm.
Pt950/Ru sheet 12 mm x 30 mm x .8 mm.
Pt950/Ru wire .8 mm x 15 mm round.
The solders used are Pt plumb solders hard, medium and easy.
Diamonds are 0.015 ct each .60 carat tw.
Chain is a 2 mm 16” Pt cable chain.

 

The tools required are a fully equipped work bench with torch and flex shaft, jewelers saw with 3/0 saw blades, sand paper up to 1000 grid, stone setting gravers, beading tool, burrs, drill bits, and polishing motor/cleaner

 

 

 

To begin the project the flat wire is being bent into a ½ heart shape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is done twice, so that the pieces will make a heart when laid together. Using a file, each piece is filed to be true.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pieces are now laid down to form the heart and are checked for level and accuracy

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using Pt hard solder, the heart is being soldered together

 

 

 

 

 

 

After filing away the excess solder, the heart is leveled again and sanded flat on a sanding block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a half-round file, the inside loop of the heart is gently filed to remove the pliers’ marks  

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is repeated for the outside of the heart as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this time, the heart is sanded to 1000 grid and ready for further work.

 

 

 

 

Making a Heart Pendant continued

 

 

 

 

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